After 14 hours the bus terminated at Vientiane bus terminal which is around 5km outside of the city. Off the bus and into a shared tuk tuk with some lads we'd met on the bus. We were dropped in the middle of town and we walked the rest of the way to our guesthouse for the next 5, yes 5 nights - Moonlight Champa.
We'd decided to stay longer in the city as we arrived just before the Laos New Year - Pii Mai. We hoped that by arriving a few days before we would get to see the city before the party took over. We didn't know too much about the event but had read and heard that it was a massive water fight (water is poured over shrines at temples and monks too for blessings and good luck, life etc...) that takes over the country (as well as Thailand who call the event Songkran) and Laos comes to a standstill for 3 days.
Upon our early morning arrival at the 'Moonlight Champa' guesthouse we were given a drink of well needed cold water and shown immediately to our room. We'd decided to spend a little more on some nice accommodation and I'm so glad that we chose to spend the extra Kip here. Our room was almost new, big bed, en suite which was immaculate and the communal area downstairs had tea, coffee, water and a few snacks for all guests! We were won over and even more so when we met Isabella and Brad (along with Mr Lau who runs the place when they're not around).
Another highlight of the guesthouse was the information available to guests. Isabella and Brad love their food and therefore put together a portfolio of the places to eat each meal of the day, where the best value for money places were and most importantly where we could source a hearty breakfast. We used this guide throughout our stay and it was great to not have to shop around for places to eat as the decisions were made for us!
Heading out for an explore (and to find one of the recommended places for breakfast - the Scandinavian bakery) we got a nice introduction to the water fights that were due to take place...
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| The first of many (water) guns pointed and fired at us in the Laos capital |
After a French/Scandinavian style inspired breakfast we headed out to the local market to source weapons for our retaliation with the Laos people. Oh and on the way we explored the riverfront and saw some local buildings and monuments of interest.
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| Chao Anouvong (an old King) and me |
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| Palace |
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| More outdoor gym equipment! The UK must have got the idea from Asia as this stuff is pretty old but well used by the locals - oh and us for the amusement of the locals :) |
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| You see the little lad in the first photo of the blog... Well he's going to get it first! |
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| And I'm there for back-up |
Once we'd sourced appropriate weapons and seen some of the touristy to-do list then we headed back to the comfort of Moonlight Champa. We chatted for ages with Isabella - who owns the place. She's a great girl and a very brave entrepreneur to set up business in Laos (she is Malaysian and therefore a 'falang' like us tourists) where it's all about who you know and paying bribes. We got a great insight into the local area, more food talk and chatted about our adventures to date. As we were heading out for food we bumped into another guest - Tim. He'd just got back from a motorcycle trip to Luang Prabang and asked if he could join us for dinner, of course we (more so I) said yes. We had a great meal at the Laos Kitchen and chatted the night away with Tim who is a Brit living and working in China and on a short holiday in Laos.
A reasonably late start the next morning as we enjoyed the comfort of our bed and not the playmat from the bus the night before. Breakfast was at Veena cafe just around the corner from the guesthouse and it was the 'special' breakfast that they put on for Champa guests. This was bacon, eggs, baguette, aubergine, onions, tomato and coffee - and all for 25,000KIP (under two pounds) this was a great feed!
Sated, we hopped on the bikes provided free by Champa and set off to see the local area and a temple which was not too far away.
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| Yes, beer is the new water for Andy... |
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| Andy looking chuffed to have found yet another temple :) He did chat to some monks here though! |
After the cycle and exploring we went to Noy's fruit kitchen for a fruit shake and cool down. Headed back to Champa to relax and prepare ourselves for dinner. This eve we chose to dine at a French/Laos restaurant and although portions were small (aka normal size), food was good. We then headed out towards the riverfront to seek out the trusty night market.
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| Dinner in the French inspired capital. Andy had a savoury crepe - very Laos and I had phad thai! |
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| Fountain at night in the middle of the city |
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| Night market on the riverfront |
Another lazy start (def getting into the Laos way of life) and to Cafe Joma for breakfast. Joma is a bit like Laos version of Starbucks and has a couple of branches in Laos and Vietnam so coffee was good but food portions small and pricey! Once we'd eaten we jumped on the bikes to the Laos 'arch de triomphe' and the golden temple. On the way back from the attractions Mr Lau from Champa had told us that there was a Pii Mai party at the local gym and said she should stop by and check it out - so that was our afternoon planned!
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| Bonjour dans le Laos... |
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| avec Ana |
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| View from the top of the triomphe |
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| Every floor had a massive amount of tat on sale, possibly more than ANY other attraction we've been to so far! |
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| The Golden Temple ..see what they did there? |
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| Massive Golden reclining Buddha at The Golden Temple - I'm in there somewhere |
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| Less gold inside the grounds of the golden temple - pretty spectacular, hey! |
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| Think he wants to point something out to you... |
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Building within the grounds of the temple, we went inside and I still can't quite tell you what it was
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We looked around the temple and grounds for about an hour or so and then decided to hop back on the bikes and head to the new year party at the gym we were told about. En route to the party we were ambushed by a local restaurant who were hosting their own new year party and it went a little something like this...
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| This is me on my bike cycling past and taking a photo to show you all the party that we cycled past so you can get a feel for how the Lao celebrate... |
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| and the next minute I am pulled over, soaked and handed a cup of beer Lao, and then Andy joins me! |
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| The guy in the yellow here is the owner of the place and the party was for his family and friends - and us! |
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| Motorist entering the splash zone, the kids and adults were there with hoses and water guns soaking any passing cars, motorists, cyclists, pedestrians, noone was exempt! |
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| Andy getting into the spirit of downing drinks as quickly as you can as they are waiting to refill your cup |
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| Karaoke man and his groupies - they were all really bad singers |
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| He's still singing... |
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| No beige buffet at this party - a whole suckling pig ready to be chopped up for us all.. Maybe an idea for next Sunday roast mum? Something tells me Shannon would suddenly stop liking pork if it was served to her like this :) |
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| This guy became very fond of Andy and wouldn't leave him alone throughout the whole 3-4 hours that we were there... |
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| Everyone soaked, drink flowing, people singing, food-a-plenty and the floor is like an ice rink its so slippy |
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| Then this guy cracked the whiskey open and started feeding it to Andy |
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| Look out road users! Pi Mai is not the time to get caught out and about on a scooter! |
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| All the family are getting involved, kids at the front. Grandparents nice and dry inside and friends drinking and eating somewhere in the middle! |
Throughout the afternoon both of us were plied with drink, yes including the one who 'doesn't drink'. Trying to explain to a very drunk Laos crowd that you don't drink alcohol was like talking to a brick wall, so I sucked it up and got on the beer Laos and whatever came my way! So a very careful cycle back to the guesthouse for a debrief with Isabella and Brad
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| Free random face painting whilst waiting for our 25,000 Kip pizza (it's called 25,000 Kip pizza!) |
With Brad and Isabella informed of our antics that afternoon/early evening we headed for a bit of a recoup before setting off out for food. Brad had told us about 25,000 Kip pizza - which sells any sort of pizza for, you guessed it - 25,000 Kip (under 2 quid). It was just a short stroll from where we were staying and is owned by a British guy and his Laos wife who he'd met whilst she was studying in England. A great guy to chat to and business is going really well, although he aired quite a few frustrations about running a business in Laos as a foreigner.
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| Oh free face painting also comes with a kiss at new year... |
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| Andy wasn't allowed a kiss but did get a big love heart on his cheek - is this what it was like to be around in the glory days of the 1970's? |
The following day it was party time for the Moonlight Champa guesthouse staff. Isabella and the team had set up a BBQ, music, water pool, hoses and of course beer Laos for staff and guests to enjoy. We got involved and used our guns to soak the children at the party, the kids next door and anyone else who came past the front of the guesthouse. It was really nice to be invited to take part in the celebrations and we could duck in and out whenever we wanted to. A far more civilised party to the one that we were dragged into the day before!
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| Andy in amongst the pageantry |
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| We made sure that we got the bigger kid back for this! |
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| Andy, I mean the little girl showing us how it was done |
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| Something tells me that I shouldn't throw pennies at this float as I used to at the Ramsgate carnival floats |
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| Good call, maybe not too good for my karma to throw coins at monks... |
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| Umbrellas have dual usage here, to protect from the heat and the water pistols |
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| Andy was eye-ing up this hot chick who looked as though s/he could be in a Snoop Dogg music video |
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| Upon closer inspection he could still be in the music video but maybe not in Andys thoughts :) |
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| Andy wearing a necklace |
The whole city were geared up for the festitvities and it was all good fun, booze, food, temples, dancing, heat, water cannons and more booze. The riverfront had turned into a mass party venue and he are the before and after shots...
Bon Voyage Vientiene and merci beaucoup
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| And the party is over... Isabella and Brad were the perfect hosts |
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| Another farewell... We loved our time at Moonlight Champa but a cramped minivan to Vang Vieng has our names on it :) |
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