Thursday, 19 February 2015

ANDY AND ANA, SANTIAGO UP TO SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA, 8-14 OCTOBER 2014

Back to the same hostel in Santiago and off out exploring Cerro San Christobel again - this time on Ana's terms (that's right - on foot!) after getting a little lost around the base of the hill we finally found what looked like a track, it was a bit steep and had no entry signs but we headed up anyway. Ah - apparently its a downhill mountain biking track and it's very much in use - bad idea! We finally make it to the top muddy and knackered and then managed to get lost coming down too taking the worlds longest detour - happy Andy (not!)

Cerro San Cristobel - take 2! We made it past the slaloming bikes
Got lost on the way back down and ended up in this kids park - it was full of  musical instruments to play - quite cool but a million miles from where we were supposed to be!
More views over the city, I think it's starting to get dark and we've got a long way to go!
Last day in Santiago the next day so we tried to pack in the remaining things that we wanted to see and do (or eat in my case!) we headed to the Pre-Columbian Civilisation Museum - lots of interesting artifacts, gold and different gods, interesting but we needed a coffee afterwards so we stopped into Rapido (famed empanada joint) for a quick turnaround empanada, they don't call it rapido for nothing, we nipped next door to a Cafe Con Piernas (coffee with legs) coffee shop. This concept here is essentially that the pretty ladies and the long legs will distract you from the poor coffee and the concept has really taken hold in the city, a little non-PC but a local experience!

Cafe Con Piernas (although none in shot so really just coffee....)
This is a true fast food place as modelled by Ana, know what you want before you go in or you'll slow them down!
We happened across this mime too - he was hilarious, stopping traffic, hiding from the cops and taking the mic out of the general public, we stayed for ages!

This city gent made the mistake of walking through the performance and got followed
Next up was a visit to the late Pablo Nerudas house - an interesting character, he had 3 houses in Chile, all of these are now museums. We picked this one in Santiago to explore, really interesting quirky houses with some interesting details about the man. Apparently he loved the sea but was afraid of drowning so never went on a boat! He did however build his house to reflect life on board a boat with low ceilings and a captains table - a little eccentric to say the least, a writer with a nobel literature prize and an active politician as well as a bit of a womaniser. A busy guy...

The little garden at Pablo's joint

Tourist with audio guide
Tried a new local beer (Escudo) and then prepared ourselves for our epic 24 hour bus journey up San Pedro de Atacama in the desert in the very north of Chile.



SA buses are great and we got a couple of Cama Suite tickets (first class of course) flat bed - slept like a baby and ate and drank pretty well! not as bad as it could have been but still a full day on a bus -  and there will be plenty more where that came from!

This is how bus travel should be, only 6 seats on this level :D
Jamon y Queso snack to start with, I am quite excited about this 

Who loves ginger Ale? Ana loves ginger ale! (Anyone else remember Keenan and Kel)
Me demonstrating why the first class ticket is worth the money - I slept like a baby for the first time ever on a bus!
Our bus stoped in Calama and we had to change to a short 1hr bus ride to San Pedro.  This involved walking for 20mins in the heat with our packs to the next bus stop on the other side of town... We then arrived in San pedro which feels like a real outpost town in the middle of the desert - that would be because it is! All of the buildings, shops, hostels, homes etc are all made of adobe (local clay from the soil) Found our place to stay - really quirky and friendly just outside of town.

Welcome to San Pedro de Atacama
This is the UV index warning system in the town centre. I suspect it doesn't tend to shift from Extremo (Scorchio)!

Next morning, we headed into town and stumbled on the finish line of an Ultra distance race series - we chatted with a support doctor and we saw the first few across the line. It was an amazing feeling being part of their celebrations with a band to welcome them in, makes a small part of me want to sign up but I have managed to suppress the urge so far.

We stumbled on the finishing line of an ultra race series across the Atacama desert.

Just as the first guy crossed the finish line - Spanish Olympian Jose Manuel Martinez
Cool medals - maybe one day we could get one?
Team Spain

We made our way across to the local museum - read up about the history of San Pedro, the local geography and wildlife and a bit about the reverend who set up the museum. Interesting stuff.

Found a great coffee shop and headed into tourist central (yes, even in a little desert town) for some tour booking - got ourselves on a recommended tour into the desert the next day to visit (among other places) the Valley of the moon.

Hit the desert road, please, please don't get a puncture
Out we go for a stroll among the dunes
Heat stroke already - that's my excuse
This is a truly bizarre place
And quite remote too...we'll be a little further over the horizon tomorrow.

All of this used to be under the sea - crazy
I may be starting to see things...do you see it too?

Getting hooot!

Some underground exploring too
Small caverns in the middle of the desert - head torches required
Valley of the moon at dusk
With Ana posing ;)

And as the sun set
and all of a sudden - it's freezing and really windy!
Back into town in the dark for a slap up local dinner at a tiny local cafe with basic food served by the Chilean equivalent of an old Italian mama, great character and great food! With a little more tan than we left with in the morning.

Slightly browner than this morning - they weren't kidding about the 'Extremo' UV rating - I was plastered in sun cream too!
Next day another long drive into the desert (about 2 hours) to see the salt plains at Salar de Tara, most people head North to Bolivia from Chile to see the amazing expanse of salt plains. We will have to save this for another trip as we are heading to Argentina and the very South so Salar de Tara will have to do! En route we saw lakes (yes water!), flamingos and all sorts of animals including Vicunyas (like a desert deer) amazing scenery and a brilliant tour guide (this time from Cosmo Andino Tours).

A startled Vicunya
more desert scenery - it's pretty spectacular to be stood in it but the photos do look a little like a windows backdrop!

Where's wally - the beginners version

Water!

Me being educated on the local wildlife

and just on cue - a flamingo, in the desert!
The contrast is amazing

pretty cool views

The guys tasked with keeping us alive for the day - Good job guys!

The coat is for sun protection - I'm burning!

Rustling up a quick snack, just the bare minimum of rice, marinaded chicken, veggies, dessert and plenty of vino. It's how desert survival should be!
During the full day tour we met a really nice older Scottish couple who were good fun to speak with through most of the day. We went to the pace they recommended for dinner and yet again were not disappointed, brilliant local cuisine, no English but great food and great service. We're getting a little better at this Spanish malarkey too!

Course 1 of 3... just normal desert cuisine

Course 2 of 3 as modelled by Andy

Finally, number 3 with a side serving of Pisco sour
Up early for our last great breakfast at the hostel and said our goodbyes to catch the onward bus to Argentina. 2 Countries left to go - keep reading, stick with it we'll get there soon!

Guard dog at the hostel, not effective but good fun!

Great breakfast at the hostel, I am trying to look up the Chilean for 'checking out'
Not the luxury bus I was hoping for....oh dear!
Next stop - ARGENTINA!