Thursday, 13 November 2014

ANA AND ANDY, BRISBANE, BYRON BAY AND PORT MACQUARIE, AUSTRALIA. 12th-22nd AUGUST 2014.

BRISBANE:

We checked into ‘Aussie Way Backpackers’, a cool little hostel in an old ‘Queenslander’ house (a wooden traditional layout building). After settling in, we headed out to explore the city centre, riverside and Queen Street mall and took advantage of the free public Wi-Fi out and about, even in the little green parklands, how very civilised! That evening we dropped into the local Woolies supermarket across the road and picked up some stuff for tea (yes, including the habit forming Tim Tams – we are working our way through each and every flavour combination they have, I blame Jade for my weight gain!). Back at the ranch we cooked in their little kitchen and watched a bit of telly (caught up on ‘’The Block’) and crashed for the evening.


Aussie Way Backpacker - A queenslander
A quick explore of the town centre - obligatory documentary photo 'for the blog' I hope you're enjoying it!

Some cool public art and old buildings, quite a funky atmosphere, a bit like parts of london.
In fact I think they may have stolen some ideas from our beloved capital...



Pretty parks and paths - complete with Wi-Fi, how very modern. I think the router is hidden in the trees somewhere...

Funky bridge selfie. Its difficult to document a city visit, Brisbane has a great feel, you should come!
We both got up the next morning raring to go for a run (probably to get rid of some of the Tim Tam calories) so we popped on the kit and did just that. Brisbane straddles the banks of the not so inventively named ‘Brisbane River’. The river itself is pretty long and winds through the city, it’s a busy stretch of waterway with all sorts of commuter craft whizzing around the place and either side of the river are some great cycling, walking and running paths through nicely designed parklands and for long stretches around the bends of the river. The banks are linked by some pretty cool bridges too (if you like that sort of thing) We had great weather for this plod and enjoyed it enough to want to go out again the next day! We spent the rest of the day mooching through the centre and checking out the shops.

Raring to go may be a bit of an exaggeration, but we went!
Next up, we headed to the Queensland Museum, an interesting way to spend a couple of hours learning a little about the natural history and cultural beginnings of the state and then grabbed lunch in the city centre. We spent the rest of the afternoon chilling out on the south bank of the river in the park soaking up some sun along with a lot of the student population.

En route back to the hostel, the plan was to pick up some nice things for dinner, these plans were foiled however, as the supermarket had closed at a crazily early time that day (something to be aware of if you come to Oz, opening hours for shops and food places may not be when you expect them) so we ended up getting a couple of takeaway dishes from a shop down the road with an offer on, it sounded too good to be true and it was! I had a plastic carton of spaghetti in some sort of sauce – obviously not as good as I make it but it was OK-ish for me, however to this day I have no idea what Ana got, I think it was supposed to be lasagne but even after finishing it off (after Ana couldn’couldn't stomach any more) I couldn't tell you what it was!

Another run the following morning, this time fuelled with whatever beige goodness we had consumed the night before, a longer run this time taking separate routes, it is proving a great way to get out and explore a new place and see some new sights that you might not otherwise see. I reckon I wasn’t to far off 13 miles by the time I’d finished! After our run and brekkie, we sought out the local ‘city hopper’ ferry. A free hop on hop off ferry service that takes you from one side of the city centre to the other, or it can turn into a free afternoon cruise to see the city of ‘Brizzy’ from new angle as it did for us, passing under the Storey Bridge and by the Naval museum and other interesting landmarks.

River shot of Brisbane, that boat you seen is the CityCat, it is not free.... 

The little rickety City Hopper ferry however, is!


South bank of the Tham...no, sorry,, the Brisbane River

The Storey Bridge

Old tug boat by the naval museum

And the Brizzy skyline - uh-oh, looks like rain

Apparently, pies are the thing to eat around these parts and so, never needing to be persuaded too hard to eat a pie (or all of them), we ducked into the nearest ‘Pie Face’ (does what is says on the tin. Put a pie in your face) and I ordered a pie ‘stack’ which involves taking one tasty steak pie, putting it in a cardboard box and layering it with mash, mushy peas and gravy. A taste experience not to be missed! More shopping, particularly in the Kathmandu which has a permanent sale on in Australia by the looks of it, with the knowledge that we still have some cold places ahead of us I spied out a thick Jumper reduced by 75% and some branded thermals for less than 10 quid – bargain.
The following morning we boarded our bus out of ‘Brizzy’ on to the next destination, the old hippy town of Byron Bay. It’s hard to put my finger on it, but even in the short couple of days we have been here – there is something I really like about Brisbane. Maybe because I think I could live here….I won’t though, we are still defo coming back!


A 'stacked' Pie Face pie.

BYRON BAY

We were dropped into Byron bay in the afternoon and walked the short distance to Aquarius backpackers, a really large hostel set up for the younger partying kids! Massive kitchen, large bar with pub quizzes and karaoke nights, etc and we were tucked into a private double room at the end of a 12 bad dorm with a shared bathroom in the dorm itself, a weird layout but worked for us! We checked in and paid a hefty deposit for sets of crockery, cutlery, tea towels, etc with the clear advice of how much each items would cost if lost or broken, nice! We made ourselves comfortable in the double room and then heard a new intake of youngsters who all arrived together, it was a bit weird overhearing their discussion including – what’s that door over there? Lets have a look….Knock, Knock. So we opened it up and startled them a bit I think! The oldies in the corner room, they told us to let them know if they were being too loud (they already were – bah humbug).

We walked into town, it’s a very small, compact place had a little explore and made our way to the beach, Byron Bay really does have a hippie vibe that it is famed for, it has notices up encouraging busking and some very cool, relaxed looking people hanging around. As a tourist hub it was also full of teens trying to join in and be part of the chilled vibe by not washing, wearing dreads and buying brightly coloured baggy hemp trousers but we have seen them all over the place, not just here and you learn to tune them out! Bryon is a pretty place with amazing beaches and views, that evening we walked to a local beach with a lookout over a popular surf beach and we watched the real expert surfers catching waves taking them all the way into shore from a hundred metres or so out, it was great to see and I had real surf envy!

A stroll along the beach at Byron Bay, great views and some awesome surfers (they're round the corner - not in this shot)!



Afterwards we stocked up on supplies for dinner and headed back to the hostel to cook a lamb chop extravaganza, drank our complimentary welcome cocktail (Ana drank hers too - I think she is converting back to booze!).

The following morning we took a walk up to the famous lighthouse – amazing all round views of the ocean and we had arrived in the middle of whale migration season – sure enough if your eyes are sharp enough amongst the whitecaps you could spot the occasional spray from a whale and every now and again you could see a huge tail in the distance slapping the water as the whale dove again. We stayed up there for quite some time spotting the giant whales and the waves crashing on the rocks below. We also ventured out onto the thin finger of rock that stretches out into the Atlantic – the easternmost point of Australia! It was pretty miserable weather and started to rain so we headed into the cafe for a warm up drink and snack.

The Byron Bay lighthouse. We saw this a lot!

Up close in all it's splendor.

And again, with some sort of coned off area but with us both!

And to complete the set, there is a pre-installed selfie pole here to mount your camera to so we got another shot out to sea!

The Easternmost point in Australia

Quick, take the photo, there's a bloody big wave coming.

Waves at the easternmost point of Australia

Is that a whale? I think it is. There was a lot of this going on - sometime they were waves and sometime whales!

Thats definately a whale

And thats definitely two of them! Synchronised swimming!
I had the running bug when I got up the next morning despite the weather looking pretty rough so I ran from the hostel back up to the lighthouse in pretty miserable drizzle and by the time I reached it was pretty cold and wet. I ran over the top and down the hundreds of steps to the easternmost point again and as a reward spotted a whale really close into the shore spouting, it was great to see it so close, I spent a few mins down there and turned to head back. Near the lighthouse again there were a mother and her toddling daughter stood still looking into a bush so I slowed down to a walk so as not to disturb whatever they were watching (any excuse - I was knackered!). As I got a bit closer there were 2 wallabies maybe a meter away in the bush just sat there staring back at the 3 of us – it was great to see them up close and they seemed quite comfortable just staring back, after a couple of minutes I continued on and the heavens really opened leaving me soaked through and squelching back to the hostel. Worth every sodden footstep it though for the animal encounters!

We walked up again later that day and spent the afternoon whale watching and dolphin spotting too - it was great to just see the animals doing their thing, the dolphins were messing around and surfing into the shore in a large group then heading back out to do it again.

Looks better in the sun (The lighthouse!)


And even better if you cut off that roadworks bit at the bottom! The camera never lies.
A wave, I think it looks cool!
Ana took ages to take this, she kept saying wait, just one more...
...I think she was trying to drown me, it missed - just!

Theres a dolphin!

Oh, look, there are more..actually there were about thirty more who came along after this photo!

The following day, Ana and I went for a run together – back to the lighthouse again! (it's probably the best place to run or walk to in Byron Bay), no freezing rain today but no wallabies either, we did head to the lookout point again and hung out watching the whales for a few minutes before returning. Just as we turned to leave, I looked back at exactly the right time to see quite a small whale completely out of the water in profile with its tail above his head and watched the whole body crash back into the sea with an almighty splash. When I had turned round the whale was already in mid-air so I only saw it for a second or so but a sight like that imprints itself on your brain!

Later that evening we had arranged to meet up with Alondra (yes, someone else we met on our trekking around the Annapurna circuit!) Alondra (originally Chilean) had recently moved from the US to Australia with her husband Dov. We had planned to head out to dinner together and Alondra and Dov told us about a Hare Krishna meeting place where people are welcomed and fed by the Krishnas. Dov drove us all there and we ate a hearty meal amongst the community and had a chat and catch up with them both whilst tucking in to a free dinner (who said there was no such thing?). It was a quirky and fun evening and we saw some of the prayers in the Krishna temple afterwards too. A good time – thanks guys!

Alondro and Dov - Thanks for a fun time guys.

Next day I had planned to hire a surfboard and hits the waves just like the experts we had been watching the other night whilst the experience on the Pollard’s Malibu was still in my muscle memory! I headed into the hire shop and the guy behind the counter in a typically straight Aussie fashion told me the surf was crap and I had better wait until tomorrow. Good on him, he actually talked me out of hiring the board…

Later, we met up with Alondra and Dov again at a coffee shop Alondra had recommended and we had a catch up and went our separate ways, them back home and us to the bus station to catch our onward bus further down the coast to Port Maquarie…

Bye, see you again!
PORT MACQUARIE

Picked up by Colin (a Scottish guy working at and essentially running the hostel) he was a great guy, very social and a fountain of local knowledge for a young lad (well compared to me anyway!). Taken back to PM Backpackers – couldn’t be more different to Aquarius a smaller more homely hostel! 

Colin whisked us straight off to see the large group of Eastern grey kangaroos (not sure what the collective known is - a hop or a bout of kangaroos?) He was quite excited to show them off and spent quite some time explaining how they were always there and he could 100% guarantee they'd be out to watch. They may have heard him as when we turned up there was only an empty golf course!

Watched a movie with the gang that evening and then the next morning we headed to the small local vineyard and had a free wine tasting. I expected this to be the highlight but the vineyard is also a museum documenting the life of the family who own the vineyard that happens to include intrepid explorers and political figures so we ended up having a really interesting tour with Ian, the curator.


Cheese then wine, I feel fine. Wine then cheese....something that rhymes with cheese?

Ana amongst the vines. These are incredibly old, I would tell you how old but I had been drinking.

Holding on, I think one of us is falling over.

After the vineyard we strolled to the beach and had a picnic lunch and relaxed a little before our afternoon appointment with the Koala hospital. Before you get too overwhelmed with ooh and ahhs at the cute Koalas I should point out that some of the residents in the hospital are here because they have Chlamydia and one of the symptoms is a 'wet bum' not as cute now eh?



Ahoy there!

Lunch stop - thankfully before the runny bum Koalas, that could really put you off!


OK, they are quite cute, some are here with burned paws from forest fires and have been rescued from roadsides by locals.

40 winks, or more like 4000, they sleep almost all the time.


This chap needs to be hand fed as he wont eat eucalyptus any more so he will likely be here for the rest of his life.
No such worries for this guy - looks like he eats like a horse!


Back at the hostel Colin rounded us up for another attempt at kangaroo spotting and this time I can see why he had been surprised at missing them on the first night -there were loads of them grazing on the golf course - must be a green keepers nightmare! We saw a few fights between younger, smaller roos and they really do look like they box with one another. It's amazing to see them scrapping! We also saw in the distance one or two mother 'roos with little joeys in their pouches and it was quite cute to see that sometimes when the mother bent down to eat some grass a little head would pop out of the pouch and start gnawing at the grass too!

Ta-da. Loads of Grey 'roos.  I think there were about 25 in all.
Errr - a kangaroo impression apparently


This chap was the dominant male in the group - he might have seen our kangaroo impression, lets go!


Next morning we trouped off to a local whale watching trip with one of the other hostel guests. We loaded on board and headed out in a quite exciting and very powerful rib skilfully negotiating the surf, then the heavens opened and the captain took the decision to bring us back in to wait out what he had heard was a small weather front.

We hopped back off and grabbed a coffee and soon enough the weather cleared again and we boarded and screamed off in the fun boat again – I was loving the boat leaping leaping off the waves in the boat as we passed through the surf zone – a bit like a fairground ride and we got to do it twice - fine by me! When we passed the surf we were into the ocean swell proper which was quite large but less physical!

For about 20 mins we scouted around with our eyes peeled and really just saw a lot of ocean, I was starting to say to myself that you can’t promise that you will see wildlife and that the experience had been fun anyway when someone spotted a whale in the distance and the boat set after it and slowly glided in closer as we approached.

Ana and hostel girl


Our ride for the morning.


Our seasoned captain

Water, water, everywhere
What's that?


It's a whale - right there in front of the boat!
There were a small group of 3 or 4 that stayed around us for a few minutes and then dove

There are very clear rules about how to approach the whales depending on whether they are on their own or with calves and which side to approach and at what speed etc, I can imagine that whilst this is to avoid stressing the whales that it also serves to protect the boats from a startled 75 ton whale retaliating to an unwanted presence – you do not want to pee off a whale in a small boat!

Difficult to take photos too – just watch they whales or you will end up missing the whales and taking a lot of photos of the sky or the sea if its a bit rough! We saw a few different groups of whales, all quite small but just seeing the huge hulk of a whale surface a couple of metres away and hearing the rush of air as it prepares for another dive is an incredible experience.

Note to any potential travellers reading - it is considerably cheaper to do this here than in Byron or further north - Almost a third of the cost in Port Macquarie (about 40AUD pp)!

Later that evening we went out for a walk and got lost a bit around the local lakes, lovely evening and nice walking trails. No Koalas, or drop bears, a few scribbly gum’s though – my new favourite tree! 

Getting lost by the lakes


Not even on the path anymore!
I love Australian names for things - they are very direct, the scribbly gum tree close up is covered with zigzag scribbles like a child has drawn on the tree - the result of a moth larvae I think eating its way back and forth

Our last long haul bus in Oz the next day so we stocked up on supplies at the local supermarket. The next morning at 5am we boarded the bus to the big smoke – Sydney. This month seems to be whizzing past far too fast – argh!

See you in Sydney!



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