ANDY AND ANA, KK AND KINABATANGAN RIVER, MALAYSIAN BORNEO, 13th JUNE 2014

Kota Kinabalu

We landed at Kota Kinabalu (or KK to the locals and cool tourists) Airport in the early afternoon and hopped on a shuttle bus into town to be dropped off at our hostel for the next few days, Masada Backpackers. It turned out to be a pretty cool place with a very young vibe but filter coffee and hot Milo (hot chocolate drink – very popular in these parts) on tap.

Masada Backpackers - our home for a few days in 'KK'

After settling in we had a wander around town, it’s a pretty small place and not too much going on – especially considering it is the 'capital' of Sabah (The Eastern State of Malaysian Borneo). 

After our orientation we sought out an evening meal and ended up in the middle of the night markets on the coast, after a bit of a discussion about what we were going to eat we settled down at a local fish place and picked a promising looking candidate. They slapped him on the grill and served him up with some salad and veg. Ana sourced some Chicken Satay from down the road for a bargain price and we settled into our feast. Correct me if I am wrong but chicken is not supposed to be crunchy is it? The gristly (and grisly) chicken didn't get finished as I think it was all the bits that can't be sold in a supermarket but the fish turned out to be pretty good. We took our cue to leave as a large rat came sniffing around for scraps, ah – luxury!


First order of business next day is to head out to see if there is anything we can do to get booked onto a climb up mount Kinabalu. This is something we have been looking at for several weeks now and not had any joy booking. This was one of the ‘must do’ items in this part of Borneo and it turns out that we needed to book it up before we left the UK 6 months ago to be sure of a slot! This is primarily down to the monopoly that has been awarded to Sutera Lodges for accommodation on the mountain, after exhausting all our options we left a little disappointed as we would not be able to climb the mountain this time around – boo!

We then went for a wander along the Northern coastline. Very pretty and scenic with some cool unusual birds and a few of the increasingly popular outdoor gym, stations. I did 5 chin ups (I know, impressive right?). We carried on our stroll to the KK wetlands centre which is a preserved area of mangrove swamp with a few Km of boardwalks laid out for you to explore the wildlife in the area (apparently there is a croc in the area but we didn’t see him). This was pretty cool and we saw a load of smaller creatures and a larger monitor lizard scurrying through the undergrowth. See pics below….

I've forgotten why I took this one - any ideas?

A nice wander along the coast in the sun

Cool mosque

Not sure what this chappie is but he is waiting for some fish...

More outdoor gym equipment...98....99...100. Or perhaps 1...nearly

KK wetlands centre. a large area of mangrove forest, home to birds, crabs and the odd large monitor lizard

Mangrove-y

Ana looking out for crocs...

...None in sight - thankfully!...

...unless that's one?

A mudskipper balanced on some litter :-/

Don't you just love a mangrove?

Home to cool little crabs which have red and blue on them

Crabs and their nests. They make a cool (and loud) popping noise communicating with each other when you walk past.

Ana posing at the top of a viewpoint tower

After our explore, we returned via a different route and had a little trek along a hillside set back from the coast overlooking KK city. Stopped off at a lookout point for a quick drink and headed back to the lodge via the Atkinson clock tower. With the news that we would not be able to climb the mountain as planned, we decided to move on the next day to Sandakan, a base to head out to Sepilok and Kinabatangan, some areas of interest.

Cool looking sky

The Atkinson clock tower - ooooooh!

Next morning we checked out and headed to the bus station in plenty of time, loaded our gear on the bus and settled into a local cafe for some Tea Tarik (literally 'pulled tea') a super strong stewy builders tea with condensed milk – sickly sweet but strangely moreish!

We had arrived at the cafe in the middle of a world cup match, Japan vs Costa Rica I think, and the locals were getting swept up in celebrating Japans efforts. Japan, being in Asia, was being supported as the local team. Any time Japan looked like scoring, a barrage of Japanese words would be shouted to show support! As Honda (the player) shaped up to take a shot the vocal crowd were shouting Suzuki! Yamaha! Sionara! Kawasaki (and any other Japanese brands or words they could think of)! Soon enough we had to get up and leave but the crowd were more than happy to pose for Ana to take a quick pic and then get back to their game.

World cup footy. Japan flying the flag for most of Asia. Go Honda..

See ya guys! Cheers for the tea.

We boarded the luxury bus to Sandakan and had an easy and pretty comfortable journey of a few hours broken up with the obligatory copied DVD’s for entertainment with the brilliant, if not entirely accurate English subtitles for entertainment value.

Arrived in Sandakan in the evening and checked in to Sandakan Backpackers.  We were supplied with welcome drinks and welcome banana fritters!   Another walk along the coast showed that Sandakan was not going to deliver on views and cleanliness – sadly the harbour was crowded with litter and the backstreets were a bit grimy, Sandakan does not have the best feel. It is known as a jumping off point for boat trips out to 'Turtle Island' where you can witness first hand the mass exodus of Turtles arriving on the beach to lay eggs and if you are there at the right time, you can see the hatchlings running for the sea and the ensuing chaos as local wildlife feast on the little hatchlings not quick enough to make it.

However after some further research this trip has become a bit of a tourist trap and has some pretty poor reviews with guides and tourists interfering with the local wildlife and ruining what people are there to see so instead of joining a tour we decided to head to a river trip into the jungle.

Sandakan, not an inspiring or beautiful place. I'd skip it if I were  you...

Sandakan catering for fat westerners buying clothes...maybe throw in a few extra X's!

More contemporary Sandakan architecture.

Roadside chicken snack - wish me luck!

Before leaving KK we had booked onto a 3 day package tour (against my better judgement after our tour experiences to date!) at the Kinabatangan River area leaving from Sandakan so next day, we hopped onto our bus leaving our larger packs with the hostel and travelling light into the national park area. We were picked up in Sandakan by the bus company and travelled to Kinabatangan with a brief stop for lunch at a dodgey rest stop in the middle of nowhere. I crammed down some not so fresh cardboard chicken and chilli with rice – Ana wisely abstained and we continued onto the River camp.

We arrived and boarded a boat for the quick trip across the river. We were staying in pretty basic wooden cabins as the nicer ‘chalets’ were all booked up. In reality I think the difference was mainly marketing garnish and our huts were fine! The lodge was well located next to the river and had great views and plenty of wildlife living in and around the camp itself.

After settling into our cabin the gong sounded (yes, each activity and mealtime was preceded by a genuine gong – rise and shine campers!) to let us know our guide was waiting with the boat for our first river excursion. We headed down and met up with our group of 10 or so and climbed aboard our boat. Ajun introduced himself as guide and boat driver for the duration of our stay and he headed off (at high speed) into the national park. After a few minutes of adrenaline packed boat antics – very good fun indeed! The boat slowed and Ajun started showing off his incredible eyesight and local knowledge. He really could see things from across the river that we struggled to spot up close when we got there – he was nothing short of incredible as a guide and wildlife spotter.

We caught a glimpse of some of the famed Malaysian Proboscis monkeys and some mischievous Pig Tailed Macaques along with some Long Tailed Macaques and also some Crab Eater monkeys.  All amongst snakes, crocs, and a huge variety of birds – in particular, the impressive hornbills and oriental darters and loads of other creatures – see below for the better pics…

After a couple of hours out on the river, we headed back to camp for dinner and had a chat with the guys from our group, a mixed and interesting bunch and some pretty nice food too! Result! After dinner we relaxed back in the cabin settled in and waited for the next gong signifying the start of our night walk!

Check out this Proboscis monkey jumping!

Geronimo!

Ana enjoying the river trip and Ajun's speedy driving.

That's Ajun at the back, in the hat. The one driving - see him?

Before too long Ajun started to spot all sorts from an incredible distance. Like this troupe of Macaques

They were feasting on a particular flower bud on the trees.

They were also a very curious bunch, especially the little 'uns

This was our first glimpse of a hornbill. Little did I know that we would be seeing hundreds more!

Grooming time!

Happy with the experience!

That evening after dark, the gong summoned us all to congregate in the middle of camp in hired wellies (it had been raining heavily) we met up with Ajun to start the jungle walk, it was pretty dark by this point so we all followed single file with head torches and headed into the edge of the forest.

It was a little creepy brushing past trees and plants knowing that amongst them were snakes and spiders galore! Again, we saw a great variety of wildlife and Ajun was genuinely excited to spot a Tarsier (or ghost Monkey). He was happy enough to do a little dance! It was great to see and the little guy was very tolerant of the noise being made by the group (some not really getting the idea of being quiet to not scare things away- morons) and stayed still just long enough to capture a pic before leaping away into the woods sideways from tree to tree. Not a common sight which is why Ajun was so pleased to have spotted one.

An Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher - looks fake but it's just asleep. Didn't even flinch with the flash on!

The Tarsier or 'ghost monkey' 

Cinnamon tree frog

A smaller - non cinnamon tree frog (Ajun wasn't around for this one!)

A small lizard desperately trying to pretend he was better camouflaged as a leaf than he really was. He may not last long!

Now thats how to do it!

Back to camp to relax and headed to bed for a good nights sleep – we didn’t get one of course, being in a wooden cabin in the woods – you would think we would have learned by now! Also the bloody gong was rung again at about 5:30am for an early boat trip so we dragged ourselves out of bed and down to the pier. 

The misty early morning on the Kinabatangan

An early bird -  another hornbill

Can you see it? Ajun did from about 50m away. One of the larger species of crocodile in Asia - the Estuarine Croc

And he spotted this snake hiding in the tree branches from the other side of the river too!

An egret - a great one I think.

Harris Hawk-Eagle from a distance.

After the boat returned from the early trip we piled into breakfast and prepared for a walk to a nearby Ox bow lake. Having learned so much about them in GCSE geography along with everyone else - it was great to finally see one! We managed to avoid most of the leeches en route but I did spot that one cheeky little blighter had attached himself to me but had already dropped off by the time I spotted i'd been got!

Our 'cabin' or 'shed on stilts' but with an en suite don't you know.

Cool bug on our walk to the lake

Me at the lake modelling the very funky wellies i'd hired.

Ana limbo-ing under a twisty vine

Cool little millipede 

Cool little lizard back at camp.

That afternoon we were allowed some 'free time' which I still think is just a bit cheeky on a paid for tour! Still, it gave us time to recover from the very early start and we crashed in the movie room and watched 'white house down'. That afternoon and the following morning we were back out on the boats again, this time knowing what to expect, we were all on the lookout for anything moving in the trees or on the banks. Some more cool animal spotting - I would highly recommend this trip to anyone who loves animals and wants to feel like David Attenborough!

A Brahmin Kite

A silver Langur with her baby - the babies are bright orange - brilliant!

And a great profile view of the Proboscis Monkey - check out that nose!

Its even better when he turns around!

A curious Macaque

Lazing water monitor lizard

And can you see the hiding lizard on this tree? Another incredible spot by Ajun from the other side of the river!

Kinabatangan selfie! Insert your own big nose monkey joke here :)

Interrupting someones lunch

Hello!

Think these are 'Storm Storks' but not 100% sure...

Bye Kinabatangan - a great time thanks!

On our last day we were ferried back to the bus on the other side of the river after brekkie and piled aboard the bus back to Sandakan. After our initial visit we had decided to leave earlier than planned, so just 1 night back at the hostel where we left our bags.

That afternoon at the guesthouse we bumped into Steven and Hiroko, an older couple who were spending a couple of weeks in Borneo as a short holiday from life in Cambodia.  We’d informed them of the great experience that we had on the river trip and after our glowing reviews they were keen to head off and see if it was for them. More from them later!

Next morning got up for the 9am bus to Sepilok, after investigating the local bus system previously it seemed clear enough – the number 18 goes to Sepilok for a very low price.

Only trouble is, there was no number 18 at 9am or 10am – After numerous discussions with the local guys who wander around the hectic bus station with satchels looking important but not knowing anything, we were told it could be 13:15 that the bus would leave so we should come back.

At 11:30 the bus rocked up – glad that we didn’t head off and come back for 1pm!

The bus station, we got to hang here for a few hours - lucky us!

This lady is flogging fags, illegally and would pack up whenever a security person came past

We piled into the number 18 which is basically a minivan, expecting to be crammed in and to have to wait forever for the bus to fill. But fortunately we were 2 of only 5 passengers and had loads of room all through the journey.

Next stop Spilok!