Friday, 7 February 2014

ANDY AND ANA, ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT TREK, NEPAL. 9th - 23rd JAN 2014.


Summary of the Annapurna Trek Experience


We took a taxi from Pokhara to the bus station, stuck the bags on the bus and just had time for a quick cup 'o' masala chai, jumped on and crammed ourselves in for the next 4.5 hours.

Arrived at Besishar and walked to Thorung Peak guest house for a good breakfast and to wait here to meet up with Norsang.

Upon arrival Norsang talked us through our itinerary over a cup of tea. Happy, we headed across the road to catch a bus for the 1 hour journey onward to Bulbule.

The bus was rammed with no room but Norsang managed to talk us on and got us into a seat somehow. We were literally wedged in with rucksacks on our laps so we could either look one side or another, not straight ahead. Still, the rucksacks were a handy airbag on the bumpy off-road journey!


We spilled off the bus in Bulbule and started our hike for real, along the side of the beautiful cobalt blue glacial waters of the Marsyangdi river. A very flat walk along the 'road' for 25 mins and we arrived at our stop for the night, Nagdi.

The Marsyangdi River

This little place is essentially made up of tea houses and almost all are closed off season. Norsang spied a likely looking open one and we headed in to grab a room.

We were the only guests staying that evening and we were well looked after by the family who ran it. Norsang arranged for extra mattresses and blankets for us and sorted out our dinner order and tea for us and we settled in to the room for the night, essentially this was a corrugated tin shed and Norsang had explained that this place would be very basic but the accommodation would be better later on. I think I was a bit over excited to notice how basic the place was, what more did we need? Good food, good view and a bed for the night!

After dinner Ana and I headed out for a walk to the river and took a look around

We're here!

An easy 25 min stroll completed and Andy strikes the wilderness explorer pose...

We headed back before it got too dark, had our dinner chatting with Norsang, ordered breakfast and headed to bed at about 7pm!

It was 'cold' (I would no longer use the c word as I now understand what true cold is, but at the time it felt chilly) not a great sleep, probably not helped by the giant rat I saw scurrying across the rafters before I closed my eyes!

Nagdi to Jagat

Around 6-7hrs walking today. Good start with a hearty breakfast from the Hotel Hil-Ton.  Great weather and we slowly peeled off the layers as we walked through the lush green scenery



Getting used to the trekking trail and Nepali flat we had a quick pit stop at Bahundanda to have a few snaps with Norsang:



At our lunch stop (Syange) we bumped into another couple who were also following the trail, and a pretty similar route to ours. Carla and Rob are a British couple who have moved to the dark side and now are Aussie citizens. Also saw a cool spider (Andy wrote this bit), apparently not poisonous...

The large, perfectly harmless yellow and black spider, I am not convinced!

Continuing with the first days worth of walking we ended up in Jagat- our destination for eats n sleeps! Stayed at the Hotel Revel along with Carla and Rob. Got chatting with them both and knew that we'd really enjoy bumping into them throughout the trek. Off to bed in a far more upscale tea house (no rats-that I could see) which was made out of bricks n mortar rather than corrugated iron!

Jagat to Dharapani

Early start and good breakfast- porridge and Tibetan bread (a new favourite!) washed down with plenty of ginger tea. Breakfast is always ordered the night before and ready when we are in the morning!

We set off in our team of 3 for another 6-7hrs walking. We started to get to know Norsang and he imparted as much information as possible about the landscape, history, flora and fauna (that's a little one for you Claire T!).

The scenery is getting a little more varied and we are starting to trek across the suspension bridges that connect the route!






We stopped for the night in Dharapani in a little place perching high over the cliffs! Just the 3 of us staying there showing the benefits of trekking 'off-season' :)



Certainly glad that Norsang is with us organising accommodation, Dharapani was mainly closed and after a days walking, it was great to have someone who knows what's going on to arrange things for you!

Norsang took us across to the local village for a little exploration before dinner. We visited a monestary which is used by local nuns and was introduced to a bit more Buddhist/Nepali ways of life.

Had a great view from our room as the sun started to set on the snowy peak



Dharapani to Chame

Starting to climb a little higher today! Chame is a bit of a milestone in the trek as this is somewhere which can be reached by road and therefore the start of some Trekkers Annapurna circuit adventures.

My not so sturdy rucksack decided to give way a little today! The straps snapped and made carrying very uncomfortable. The Rotton stepped in very gallantly and said he'd shoulder the burden of my poor purchasing decision... Cheers And :) Walking continued in the spectacular weather and the snowy peaks were starting to make their impression on the landscape.


Mount Manasalu one of the over 8,000M peaks making it a real mountain! Norsang pointed out a 4000m 'hill' today!

We arrived in Chame to meet up with Carla and Rob and also Vicky. Vicky ended up trekking solo after starting out with a group, a young lady from Norway who has been trekking around Everest Base Camp before.

Norsang took us across into the village to find the local hot springs! Little pockets of hot water pools alongside the freezing cold river. We interrupted a few bath times but got to test the temperature!

We sat down to dinner after a hot bucket shower (aka slush, bed bath, one step up from a Pompey wash) and dined on mo-mo's, soup and apple pie and 'snickers-pie' which is pretty much a deep fried snickers!

Another great view as the sun went down:

Lamjung Himal

Chame to Pisang

We had breakfast with the group before starting out at our own different paces

The happy crew before the days walking!

Left: Carla and Rob, Right: Vicky and us. Norsang in the middle, everyone's smiling... so far!

If I look a little startled, it's because I have just tried my first (and last) Tibetan tea! Some interesting tea leaves, milk, salt and Yak butter, it tastes pretty much as it sounds and whilst Norsang did try to warn me, I had to try it!

Today we start our acclimatisation training. We both decided to take diamox which is a drug that should help us with any problems that may occur surrounding acclimatisation.



As a note, an interesting side-effect of Diamox is localised tingling which moves around, it feels like pins and needles and one moment it may it could be in the first 2 fingers of your left hand then move to your nose or ears or feet. Not really unpleasant, just weird!

On the way out of Chame there are an impressive array of Money-stones all of which are inscribed with the Bhuddist mantra - om mani padme hum. Walk clockwise around them!



The 6 coloured syllables relate to the 6 levels of reincarnation from Hell to Enlightenment


Our destination was Lower Pisang with an acclimatisation walk to Upper Pisang before descending back down to Lower to eat n sleep. Norsangs mantra for this was 'climb high, sleep low'.

It's starting to get colder, and a lot higher!

Colder

Higher

After a Dal Bhat lunch we arrived in Lower Pisang, dropped bags (Andy still carrying mine, by now we've swapped bags and contents!) and had a cuppa ready for the climb to Upper Pisang. The climb was from down here to up there and back:

Upper Pisang from Lower Pisang,see the white and gold building at the very top? That's where we're off to...


 with a visit to the monastery at the very top.

Made it, no more steps please!

Well worth the effort, Buddhist temples are very richly decorated, we arrived to a lone monk chanting.

Back at the tea house we introduced Norsang to Gin-Rummy, a card game that is regularly played when we make the trip up to see Mum n Dad Rotton. Andy normally loses to his mum at this game so I think he saw Norsang and I as easy targets! Turns out that Norsang is a secret card shark and only narrowly got beaten by Andy!

Lower Pisang to Manang via the 'upper route'

Chilly start! Getting out of the sleeping bags is becoming hard work (as well as the late night visits to the loo- which is usually outside and a short walk away). The climb to Manang takes us to 3800m and back down so it's a good test for our capabilities at altitude.


The upper route is more challenging and has better views than the lower, road route and as we were both feeling good and no issues as yet Norsang gave us the choice which route to take, obviously we had to go for the higher path this started with over an hour of ascent along a zig zag route heading pretty much straight up to a stupa several hundred metres up, this was a tough climb and pretty warm but every zig and zag would give alternating views of Annapurna II and Annapurna III which were both stunning so this helped us along the way a bit

Zig- Annapurna II



Zag- Annapurna III ( The white peak on the right)

Zig - Annapurna II

You get the idea


From the stupa at the top we headed along the Nepali flat route going through Gyahru and Ngawal village stopping for a Dal Bhat lunch with a great view of the mountains with some gathering cloud before coming back down to Manang.

A long day trekking with around 8hrs of walking with a side trip to the oldest monastery in Manang district (at Braga).



The monastery was open, tucked in the back was this 600 year old Buddah statue made from mud!

We are now starting to take on board some of the information that Norsang is providing us! We are aware that you need to walk clockwise around stupas, prayer wheels, money stones and pretty much anything- it's better for luck, but makes the route that little bit longer!  

Prayer Wheels - clockwise, like this cow!


Once we arrived we saw Vicky again and the crowds had started to pick up. At our guest house there were at least 7 or 8 others which was the biggest gathering we'd seen so far. We stay in Manag for 2 days as part of our acclimatisation and therefore no backpacks required for tomorrow's walk!

Manang to Manang (acclimatisation day/ rest day)

A later start today and a much shorter walk. We headed straight up for around 1hr and looked down upon Manang for a short while before heading back down. We then walked across to the Gangapurna lake which sits at the foot of the named glacier. The lake was pretty much frozen over and was cool to see the glacier from the foot of it.








We'd bumped into Carla and Rob here too. Rob had suffered a bit with the altitude and took the right precautions before continuing with the climb. We have become to realise that we are certainly the poor relation in terms of how prepared we were for the trek in comparison to others!

Vege fajita and pizza for tea over a warm fire and good chat :)

Manang to Letdar

It's officially bloody freezing. The washing we hung out the previous day has actually frozen and become hard sheets of material! Some snow has also started to make an appearance.


We set off on a climb to Yakkarka, some steep terrain today which is certainly starting to get trickier for us both.



Stopped for lunch (sorry Ana!) when we reached Yakkharka and dried there remaining  frozen washing in the sun.






As we had made good time and were still feeling good, we decided to push on to the next town, Letdar, to make it more likely we would get to High camp the next day instead of stopping at the lower Thorung Phedi camp.

We make it to Letdar to see Vicky again and also meet Alondra, who is travelling the circuit with her guide Robi. After a cup of tea it was time to climb again- climb high, sleep low. Norsang is in peak condition at the moment having been trekking non-stop since October so he's making sure we're in good shape too!


Norsang at his peak



Either it's getting cold or Ana is planning to hold up the next people we meet...




Back to the tea house and it's a scramble for the fire. As soon as the sun goes it's chuffing cold, so our bags are becoming lighter with the amount of layers that we are now wearing!


Letdar to High Camp

Another day closer to the high-pass (Thuroung-La) and also closer to the yaks! They only live at high altitude so are not around us for too long




From Letdar it's a short-ish walk to Thorung Phedi which is at the foot of high camp. We make that successfully and have a cuppa before embarking on a really tough 1hr climb to high-camp.



Ana pretending to be a superhero. Maybe this is AMS setting in?


Passing the Yaks and blue sheep (they're not blue) we slowly make our way towards the top.









 It's amazing how breathless you can get up here. Once there it's a hot day and dry arid looking landscape. Alondra is there as well as Vicky, Kim a young Korean teacher and two young American lads- Andy and Lee.

We ate pretty well considering we were now at 4800m opting for vege curry and fried rice (carb fest for the entire trek pretty much, Rob n Baz- you'd even have to eat them!)

It looked as though this would be the gang who we'd cross the high- pass with the next day...quite excited although there were some clouds gathering in the distance...




An early start planned for tomorrow so we got an early night and tried to keep warm, even in the sleeping bags, wearing everything except the waterproof layer for the next day it was freezing cold. Getting up to go outside to the loo was a real effort and required preparation after 3 hours warming up, putting your (literally) frozen boots on was miserable and then it would take hours to get a bit warm again! Still, it was very exciting to be going over the pass the next day, at about 3 am Ana went to the loo and reported it had been snowing, when nature called me, I took the camera to take a look...

bugger....



High Camp to Thuroung La

Over night our water had frozen and the snow continued to fall. We'd gone for an early morning snow-pee and by 3am it had got pretty thick at least a foot maybe a foot and a half)

By the time we all got up (bar Andy and Lee) and were ready to attempt the climb to the top, snow was around 1 and half feet at High Camp (or 15 feet if you hear my more dramatic version upon our return).We started walking about 6am

Alondra, Vicky and guide Robi were first to set off and we followed suit with Kim and her guide just behind. It became apparent quite quickly that we couldn't differentiate between the ground and the sky- a complete white out!














We are then joined by Andy and Lee who caught us all up after getting up a little later. At this point it is worth us pointing out that between them they were carrying everything needed for a much longer trip, including a tent, ukulele, 3 flutes and 3 gloves (turned out Lee lost one so had one gloved hand the other in a sock!) 

Lee (left) with a sock on his left hand, Andy (right) just happy!



Norsang could see that the first group were going slightly off track and looked to trail blaze for us to find the right track. During this time the first group then slid down the hill on their bums! Crazy way to get down but better than being stuck.



The 3 guides got together and Norsang headed off to see if he could find the trail. By this point it's still snowing and starting to get windy and very cold.

The going was pretty tough and the group would wait with a guide whilst Norsang and Robi looked for the marked route beneath the snow. This start stop was very cold and wet and toes and fingers were starting to get numb, still we all tried to keep our spirits up!






The trail was nowhere to be seen so after 3hrs in the snow the decision was made to turn back. It took another 2hrs to return, en route the group in front of us encountered a mini avalanche, a very thin slab of snow slid down and hit 2 or 3 of the leading group, this was a very small slide but still added an extra foot or so of snow around their legs, we hurried past this bit hoping that no further larger slips were on their way!  we were all pretty pleased to return safely





We were all in a bit of shock I think, I certainly was so it took some time for us to defrost and dry our clothes by the fire.


The rest of the day was spent inside watching the snow continuing to build and assuming that we'd be climbing back down instead of up the next day. We hired two 'hot bags' aka hot water bottles for our feet and headed to bed after our adventure. Apparently we'd made it up to 5200M that day, 216 below the high pass itself but I am 1000% certain coming back was the right thing to do and have a lot of respect for Norsang for making that call!




High camp - High camp

We went to bed not knowing what our plan would be for the next day. Norsang had been great in filling us in and keeping us aware of the plan, but with the weather as it was it was best just to catch up this morning.

The snow had stopped in the night and a very snowy but very beautiful high camp awaited us the next morning.




Instead of climbing down-which we came to assume would be the case- we were told we'd be doing neither up or down but staying put! Kim along with her guide, Vicky and the boys chose to head back down. The boys needed to get down due to lack of funds and had started selling their gear to fund the trek (ATMs are hard to come by over 4000m), Vicky hadn't really slept well over the past few days and was lagging and Kim had a flight to catch. Whereas we and Alondra were staying put.




As the sun was yet to appear we did some exercises to try and keep warm! But as soon as 8.30am came as did the sun and it was a beautiful day for the rest of the morning.  By late afternoon the sun disappeared and we were the only 3 guests at the tea house, assuming that no one else would make the climb up to high camp in the snow... Wrong! Around 3pm a lone traveller climbed up the steep hill to high camp to announce that he was one of around 25 others who we're making their way up!








So with the others trickling in the tea house owners had to change gear and start preparing to host 30 odd of us rather than 3 (plus Norsang and Robi)... It was very crowded and everyone was talking about crossing the high pass the next day.

There were discussions about who would break the trail for everyone now that the guides had lots of others to consider (many had climbed without a guide). The snow was estimated at around 3ft and therefore a local guide was employed to break a trail in his snow boots and we would all follow suit.

High camp to Muktinath

Our water had once again frozen overnight (as had a poo left in the toilet, it was like it was welded on!) and therefore we had to join the queue to get some boiled water so we'd have something to drink on the climb.

We started out towards the rear of the now 30 strong group and headed up in the sun.








In order for the local guide to break the trail we'd all need to pay extra cash. All bar 2 lads decided this was appropriate and they'd chosen to go ahead of everyone and break the trail themselves using the GPS on their phone... We'd passed them on the way up as one of the lads was in difficulty and hurt his knee. We encouraged them to make their way down rather than trying to struggle to the top-which they did.

The climb was tough, breathing was slow and hard and legs felt like lead but we made good progress. Parts were easily deeper than 3ft of snow and this was unlike anything I'd experienced or imagined! 

At one point Andys walking pole sank through the snow an there was an ominous noise and a crack appeared across the snow, scary stuff but it went no-where an everyone scurried up and past with no slides thankfully.


The ominous crack!


The wind started out whipping up the loose snow off the surface and to our faces but as we climbed it dies down an just left behind some beautiful shapes in the snow


We made it! After 4hrs of climbing we reached the high-pass. Norsang was estatic and we were happy and relieved!






A short stop on top and then we headed down. We were first to leave with Alondra and her guide and everyone followed suit. We stopped to take layers off (was very very hot) so slowed down a bit. I really struggled with going down was it was such a steep descent with 3-4ft snow. Andy was struggling with the intensity of the heat and Norsang was doing a great job of trying to keep us going. By the time we reached the foot of the pass we still had an hours walk to Muktinath.



That's Daulagiri in the background from Thoroung La (another 8000M+ peak)


Muktinath- finally!



 It took us almost 10hrs to cross the pass and arrive at our hotel, a very tiring, rewarding and emotional day. By this time we'd also forgotten to apply sun lotion, a bottle of factor 50 was carried all the way- but not applied! So we were burnt to say the least.






We arrived at our hotel for the night to a small hot shower (first in a long time!) and good food. A couple of Dutch guys were staying at the hotel as they are motor biking around the world!  However their short trip up to Muktinath had turned into a long stay as their bike could not cope with the snowfall, they had been trapped for several days and were expecting to be there for anothe week or so. Tomas and Bruce provided us with good company, stories and well needed humour. We shared the small gas fire for a few hours and went to bed, ready for a long walk the next day.

Muktinath to Jomson

Food first ...




We started the day with a trip to the local Muktinath temples. These have particular significance as they are used by both Bhuddist and Hindus in the same complex. 





We then grabbed our bags ready for the 6hr walk to Jomson. We knew this would be tough as the snow was pretty deep across the valley. I was particularly grumpy as was struggling with the snow walking but Andy and Norsang were doing a great job trying to keep up moral.


The long walk to Jomsom-snowy and hard work!

By the time we arrived in Jomson we had decided that if it was possible we'd catch a bus to the next town to catch up on the extra nights spent at high-camp. But Jomson was full of snow and lots of ice! Norsang had suggested that if it wasn't safe to go by bus then we'd need to walk 7hrs the next day.

Our guest house provided us with a well deserved Dhal Bhat and some warmth (not to mention an ensuite toilet!). They had a solid wood table with a coal fire underneath!! Just had drapes over the top which kept the heat in- amazing and we'd suggest that you organise that for the next CDWM Emilie- Joyce would have no complaints about the cold :)

And for those of you who think I am over exaggerating how hard this day has been, a picture speaks a thousand words...




Jomson to Tatopani

We had prepared and got dressed for snow walking... Only to hear that there was a bus running and we'd be getting on it! We originally didn't want to catch a bus in our first itinerary so had walking sections added. To find our a bus was running was like we'd won the lottery! Although it was a bit of a lottery getting on a bus on the snowy, icy Nepali roads! ... 3 buses later and we arrived in Tatopani, literally translates to hot water.


The area is well known for its hot springs and this was to be a highlight of the past few days. Arriving at our lodge with orange, lemon and plum trees in the garden felt like stepping into the Mediterranean.







We then took a trip down to the local hot spring, where locals bathe and Trekkers come to relax. Andy got straight in, in his pants and I modestly dipped my feet in (hadn't prepared for semi nakedness - Dee a bit like the showers at rugby, I could've gone in, in my PE kit).




After a long soak, good dinner and a farewell to Alondra (she was continuing the trek and we had come to the end of our time with Norsang) we packed ready to head back to Pokhara and leave the circuit behind. With a small house guest to keep us company for the evening



Tatopani to Pokhara

Up with a spring in our step and trainers rather than walking boots on we boarded a bus for Beni.

Typical Nepali bus with tiny seats and very little head room we bounced along the rd to Beni.  this was nowhere near as bad as it got and continued for 2 hours, the bus journey was more physical than walking!


Passing a truck who had to shed some of its load to actually get up the hill!  And potholes galore after 3hrs we got off the bus into a shared jeep and drove the final 2hrs leg to Pokhara. With only minor obstacles blocking the way!






We returned back to the hotel we'd stayed in previously and went out for lunch with Norsang. We then planned to head out for dinner to thank Norsang that evening. We met him at Moondance at 8pm for a well deserved beer, chat, meal and very heartfelt thank-you. What a guy!




Thanks Norsang and all the guys we met on the way, an unforgettable experience!


A quick word about Norsang and High Camp Trekking (http://www.highcamptrekking.com/).....

We decided to go trekking with Norsang Lama, the Owner and Manager of  High Camp Trekking after trawling forums for recommendations.

After contacting a number of possible independant guides and companies Norsang provided the most comprehensive and detailled response with a background of our kit requirements, route to be taken what was or was not included and transport details.

Along the way we both found Norsang to be a very good guide with plenty of experience and a good head for making decisions on the trail but also a good host and a wealth of information about the local environment, culture, history, religion, politics and Nepal in general. He is also a great guy to get on with, speaks good English.

Norsang has been a great guide and the way the trek was structured with included food an accomodation made our lives a lot easier and more straightforward when things got a little tougher. I would certainly recommend getting a guide or company who structures the trek like this and personally I would recommend Norsang Lama and High Camp Trekking specifically, along the way we had many comments from others with and without guides that we had been lucky with our selection and after 2 weeks on the road in various conditions I have to agree!

If you do consider trekking in Nepal along any of the trail, I do recommend contacting Norsang for further information.

















2 comments:

  1. Hi guys. Just wanted to say I am loving your blog!! It makes me feel a bit like Margot from The Good Life, enjoying the spoils of the suburbs whilst looking in on the crazy neighbours next door! But, I was there once and it's a fabulous experience, worth every minute. A two year old Jessica says hello as does Andy (age not provided!). Enjoy!!! Jane xx

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  2. Hi! Ana:) I am the Korean, KIM ^-^
    I am happy to hear you pass the "Thorong La" even i couldn't success!
    Happy to meet you and Andy, (Cutie Couple ^^) and I hope you have great time on the journey ^-^

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