A Rotton Adventure (with A Baker): ANDY AND ANA, UDAIPUR, INDIA. 24TH DECEMBER 13

Udaipur

Arrived on Xmas Eve at Jaiwana Haveli, our little piece of luxury for Christmas only to find that it was being run by descendants of 17th century royalty (Yash and Harsh- very cool young business men)! This place is in the popular area of Lal Ghat and right on the Pichola Lake. Great views at breakfast overlooking the lake and the goings on at all the Ghats.

We had our own private terrace! We did only use it to dry Andy’s pants, but we made some use of it :) Had a sleep and then mid afternoon headed out to get bearings, palace and lake. Getting to our room was like walking through an Escher drawing! Up and down and down and up, something like that. But beautiful place for 25 pounds per night :) Now thats how you get a soft mattress in India - you have to pay to get it.

Andy wanted to mention that I have poor negotiation skills. We bought two santa hats and I was willing to pay no more than 50INR for two (so that’s 50p in real money). The guy said they were 20INR each so I said “I’ll take two”. Shocking skills apparently but in my mind they came 20% under budget and therefore a saved bartering session with the stall holder :)

Christmas Day

We looked at exploring the palace but was crazy busy so went on a boat trip around the lake instead. A beautiful sunny day and perfect for being on the water (in our Santa hats). We then walked for around 6km getting a bit lost on way to Shilpragam fair- good fun day out for Indians and tourists alike. Plenty to see and do and lots of performances and food.

Once we got back we finally found an appropriate connection to Skype with respective family members. I think Lisa was first with Jord, Becks and Gary and then we got hold of Mum n Dad Rotton. Following that it was the turn of Kerri, Shan, Jem and Mum Baker. Good to see and speak with them all from far away (again in our santa hats).

That evening we ate in Hinglish restaurant (the rooftop of a Lonely Planet recommendation), quiet but nice food and overlooking the city palace. An end to a very different Xmas Day but a memorable one for us.

Boxing Day

Today we took the government (local) bus to Ranakpur to see an amazing Jain temple. It is around 90Km from Udaipur and a 3 hour local bus to reach it. This in itself was an experience being the only two westerners on the bus and a novelty for the locals. It was a cramped and bumpy affair with no personal space (I had two Indian women sat on me at one point) but a great way to see everyday India. All for 2.40 round trip for us both! Bet you can’t get a mega-rider for that Mum!

Although being female and a lesser species here in India (specifically in Rajasthan) I did get a ‘womens discount’ on the bus, saving me 30% off the male fare… Hmmm...

The temple at Ranakpur was pretty awesome. I know this will be one of many (thinking Al and Amy and Stace will all be smiling at our appreciation of this one temple in month one!) that we will see so have a look at the photo to see why we liked it.

We stopped for chai and biscuits on the way back, where we thought the bus would stop and checked with a guy who told us that no buses stopped here so we’d have to take a local taxi, scammer!... Then asked an Indian artist who spoke fluent french and he kindly told us we were in the right place.

Back to Udaipur for dinner and to move onto our next place. Our helpful hosts at the Haveli put us in touch with a friend of theirs who owned a Homestay locally. We went to see the Little Garden guest house and were overwhelmed by how great this place was! So we didn’t hesitate and managed to secure a half price rate per night and would be moving in the next morning.

Before we ate we played connect 4 - as you do. I whipped Andy’s arse 7:1! Gotta beat him at something :) Again Andy tucked into meat and had tandoori chicken… I don’t think we’ve got a photo of any of the sad mangy chickens that live on the side of the roads but if you would’ve seen them then chicken wouldn’t necessarily be your first choice for food :) I opted for a Thali, yum.

Christmas is now over

Next day we went to the city palace, with the rest of India! We started with another boat tour to Jagmandir island and around the lake. The palace is a big place and not that much to see inside but the grounds were a nice place to be. That evening we had arranged dinner with Chris and Alex (an Aussie couple staying at the homestay). We met on the roof of our place before and had a few drinks and then went to a swish place (Ambrai) where we had a great view of the lake and best seats in the house! Great dinner and even cocktails (not for me you lot!).

Piccola Lake from the water

A cool little island where only birds hang out

The famous hotel in Udaipur - used in the James Bond Octopussy movie

City Palace frrm the water

'Selfie' on Jagmindir Island, we're starting to get the hang of them now!

Where did Ana Go? She was just here a minute ago....

Beautiful Green courtyard - Palace is nicer higher up - the ground floor is a bit decrepit...

Rajhastan loves a peacock - not sure why i'm afraid but this one looks pretty cool

Mount Abu

Next morning we took the early government bus to Mount Abu (now experts in local transport and getting womens discounts). A 4 hour trip to Abu road and then another hour to get up the 27Km long road that takes you to the top of the mountain (around 1500m). We stayed at hotel Shri Ganesh and got there just in time for lunch (pizzas and a curry dish). We met Tillman and Jessica (a German couple travelling around India after 3 months in Africa!) there who had also arranged to head out on our planned trek around the mountain. Our guide for the trek was Charles he was great fun and an informative guy. The four of us trekked around for a couple of hours and had chai at the top! Great views, watched the sunset and then descended back down in time for the light to fade. We headed out to dinner after trek with Jessica and Tillman and Charles (who came so we could write in his review book).

Photos below

After dinner we stumbled across an Indian rave (winter festival). This was a big marquee set up for a festival the next day and had loads of people dancing to a DJ. We saw a few dance offs and then Tillman was in the middle of one, we all then ended up dancing and being entertained by the Indian guys who can really dance! Andy Rotton got his special dancing face out and showed the Indians how it’s done in the UK (insert drunk uncle at a wedding picture here). At one point I thought we may have lost Tillman to the crowd but he came back!

Back to the hotel for a night in the ice box. It was bloody cold!! The roof was not actually attached to the room so it was letting in a constant cold draught, it was so cold we could see our breath, so we spent the night with our heads under the cover so our noses didn't fall off.

Next day we awoke to a brilliant view, albeit a chilly one! So staying on the roof in the icebox really did pay off... sort of.

Penthouse View, Just without the penthouse heating. Ceiling was dripping as the sun melted the ice on the corrugated roof!

We headed into Mount Abu to check out what was going down - not alot. So had food, looked around Nakki Lake and headed up to 'toad rock' - not too sure if it is well named, you can be the judge!

Then it was time for the bus back. This time via 'tourist' bus, which was crap! So more money but less service. Andy did feel a little queezy on the way back down the winding,bumpy mountain as he started to eat his lunch... woops.

We arrived back in Udaipur to be dropped off in the middle of nowhere so flagged down a rickshaw who took us back to our place and even picked up a random Indian man who i think may have been off his face whilst trying to sell his 'guide' services to us! That would've been an interesting guide around town to say the least. Out for food where I had an 'accidental' chicken soup, so broke my meat fast, but back on it! Who would've thought that chicken noodle soup had chicken in it?! Scandal.

Our last morning in Udaipur was spent having breakfast with Chris and Alex whilst our host family served and watched - good food and good company! Paratha, chickpea yogurt, corriander paste, fruit and chai.

We then caught up with admin and a spot of shopping (I bought some shit trousers - sorry Rob, they nearly fall into the Ali Baba range, but not quite. Andy says that I look like Aladdin in them, but I don't have a waistcoat so there!). We then arranged to meet with Jessica and Tillman at a cafe for a drink and catch up (they left mount abu in the morning before we did, so said we'd meet for a drink in Udaipur the following day) before we departed company.

As a last night’s entertainment before the day-long- train (20 hours :( ) we went along to a cultural show at Bangore Ki Havelli. The show was an hour long and consisted of some fun musical interludes on an accordion box thing. There was a puppeteer, some folk dancing examples performed by women who worked in fields and dances that were performed sitting down whilst performing daily chores. It was all pretty cool, the crescendo was an older lady dancing with 2 large pots on her head, she really did look unsure about how stable they were, I saw her coming on stage and she looked panicked!

Then they added another pot, and another - you get the idea - see the photos below - and no, they are not stuck on, genuinely impressive!!!